How to Secure a Bookcase in an Earthquake

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How to secure a bookcase in an earthquake comes down to three jobs: fasten the tall unit to wall studs, keep the heaviest items on the lowest shelves, and restrain whatever sits on the shelves. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and the American Academy of Pediatrics (AAP) cover anchoring furniture to prevent tip-overs in general. The Earthquake Country Alliance pages cover shaking specifically. This guide uses all of them and says where they agree, where they differ, and where they do not give an answer.

Quick answer

• Anchor tall units to wall studs. The Earthquake Country Alliance says tall furniture “should be attached to wall studs to avoid toppling in an earthquake.”
• Choose hardware that matches the shaking. The same site says flexible fasteners “allow furniture to sway slightly without falling over.” Its bookcase page and its shelving page recommend different hardware, so check the unit’s own instructions.
• Keep heavy items low. Shelves are safer when the weight sits near the floor, so the bookcase’s heavy and large items belong on the bottom shelves.
• Restrain what sits on the shelves. Use net restraints, clips, cords, or Velcro for small and bulky items, and set breakables in place.

Start with the wall: find the studs

Most of the anchoring advice in these sources depends on a stud. The Earthquake Country Alliance bookcase page says that the straps “must be screwed into wall studs; identify where these are with a stud finder.” The CPSC staff report says the same about furniture anchors: “Rather, a wood screw is usually provided and must be installed in a stud.” The report also explains why the wall material matters. It states that “Drywall anchors are strongest when pulled at an angle parallel to the wall (a shearing force).” A drywall anchor is not a substitute for a stud when the goal is to hold a heavy bookcase upright.

Use a stud finder before you drill. The sources we opened do not give a stud spacing for your wall, so do not assume one. Mark each stud you find and check that it is solid wood at the height where the hardware will go.

Choose the hardware

Flexible nylon straps

The Earthquake Country Alliance bookcase page describes a flexible option. Nylon strap kits “screw to the wall at one end and have adhesive pads that stick to the furniture with either Velcro or buckle fasteners.” The page gives this sequence:

1. Locate the wall studs with a stud finder.
2. Screw nylon straps to wall studs near each side of the furniture through a pre-punched hole in the strap. The page notes that these “can be hidden behind the furniture.”
3. Attach the adhesive end of the strap to the furniture, following the kit’s instructions.

The page also gives a height rule: “If taller than 6 feet, secure straps to the sides, at 2/3 the height.” It says to secure each piece “to at least two wall studs, depending on size and weight.” Two straps on a short unit may not be enough for a heavy one, so the number of straps should increase with the size and load of the bookcase.

Metal L brackets: what the two sources say

The AAP page recommends metal hardware: “Consider using furniture and wall anchors that are metal (such as “L” brackets). Plastic can become brittle over time and break, causing anchors to fail.” It also says “The heavier the furniture, the more anchors you should use to prevent it from tipping.” The AAP page is about tip-overs, and it does not discuss shaking.

The Earthquake Country Alliance bookcase page is more cautious about L brackets. It says to attach furniture with “metal “L” brackets that screw into both the wall stud and the furniture, as in strong shaking these do not allow any flexibility (which can break the metal where it bends, or damage furniture).” The page prefers the flexible strap kit for that reason.

The Earthquake Country Alliance shelving page then recommends clip angles and steel struts for shelf units. The two SCEC pages do not reconcile these points. The sources we opened do not say which hardware is correct for a particular bookcase, so use the bookcase’s own installation instructions and the wall-stud rule above. Whatever hardware you choose, the AAP advice to use more anchors for heavier furniture still applies.

Anti-tip hardware and the drywall problem

The AAP page tells readers to “Secure all furniture and mirrors with anti-tip devices.” The CPSC staff report covers anchoring furniture and televisions without tools. Its drywall finding is the reason this guide sends readers to studs first. If a bookcase is anchored only to drywall, the sources we opened give no load figure that would make that safe.

Shelf units versus bookcases

The Earthquake Country Alliance shelving page uses the phrase “shelf units,” and its rules differ by weight. It says to install clip angles and steel struts “for shelf units weighing less than 250 pounds.” For heavier units, the page says: “For shelf units that weigh over 250 pounds (including contents), consult a structural engineer.” The weight includes what is on the shelves, so a light empty frame can become a heavy unit once it is loaded with books.

The same page gives a few construction details. It says to “Install strap bracing across back of shelving. Provide three screws at each end of the bracing.” It says to “Connect adjacent shelf units with steel plates and machine bolts.” It also gives a warning about the wall: “Do not attach to gypsum wallboard only.” If your wall is drywall, that line means the fastener has to reach a stud behind the board, not just the board itself.

If you are still choosing a unit, read its stated dimensions and weight limit before you buy. Our guide to bookshelves for a small room covers sizes for tight spaces, and our six-shelf bookcase review shows the specifications one listing states. Shelf weight limits are a separate question; see our notes on wire shelf weight limits and floating shelves that can hold weight. Plan the anchoring before you load the unit.

Keep heavy items low

This is the one rule that every source we opened repeats in some form. The Earthquake Country Alliance bookcase page says: “Place heavy and/or large items on lower shelves to prevent them from flying around the room in an earthquake.” The open-shelves page says: “Move heavy items and breakables to lower shelves.” The closed-shelves page says: “Store heavy objects as low as possible.”

The closed-shelves page also warns about one kind of hardware. It says: “Do not use metal edge angles where top heavy items are stored.” Keep the weight low instead of relying on an edge to hold a top-heavy item.

Restrain the items on the shelves

Anchoring the bookcase stops it from falling. Restraints stop the contents from spilling out. The Earthquake Country Alliance closed-shelves page gives several options:

• “Use net restraints for items that are bulky or stored high.”
• “Use zee clips, bungee cords, or Velcro to secure small items.”
• “Make sure shelving is securely attached to walls.”

The page lists a clear plastic or wood shelf lip among its supplies, alongside clips, cords, and Velcro.

For breakables, the open-shelves page is more specific. It says to “Use either hook and loop fasteners on the table and object, or non-damaging adhesives such as earthquake putty, clear quake gel, or microcrystalline wax to secure breakables in place.” It warns that “Collectibles, pottery objects, and lamps can become deadly projectiles.” Keep glass and ceramics on the lowest shelves, and use a fastener on each piece that matters to you.

A simple install sequence

1. Empty the top and middle shelves of heavy and breakable items, and move them to the bottom shelves.
2. Find the studs with a stud finder, and mark them at the height of the hardware.
3. Fasten the unit to the studs using the hardware that matches its size and weight. For a shelf unit over 250 pounds with its contents, the SCEC page says to consult a structural engineer.
4. Add back the lighter items, then use net restraints, clips, cords, or Velcro for anything stored high or small enough to slide.
5. Check the anchors every so often. The sources we opened do not say how often, so set your own schedule.

How we chose

We chose the CPSC staff report and the AAP page because they address anchoring furniture against tip-over. We chose the Earthquake Country Alliance pages because they address earthquake shaking directly and include separate pages for bookcases, shelving units, closed shelves, and open shelves. We excluded retail listings, review sites, and general encyclopedia pages as sources for any safety or procedure claim. This post does not name or rank products.

How we checked

• CPSC, “Preliminary Evaluation of Anchoring Furniture and Televisions Without Tools,” TR-15/001 (May 2015). Opened 2026-10-27. The report says it “has not been reviewed or approved by” the commission, so it is a staff report, not a standard.
• American Academy of Pediatrics, HealthyChildren.org, “Preventing Furniture and TV Tip-Overs.” Opened 2026-10-27.
• Earthquake Country Alliance, “Bookcases,” “Shelving Units,” “Closed Shelves,” and “Open Shelves.” Opened 2026-10-28. The footer credits the Statewide California Earthquake Center (SCEC), headquartered at the University of Southern California. These pages are written for California, so check local guidance if you live elsewhere.

Each quoted sentence was searched in the text of the page after tags were removed. The CPSC text was extracted from the PDF. Some quotes are shortened; no sentence has been reworded inside quotation marks.

What we could not verify

• A load rating for any specific anchor, strap, or wall. The sources we opened do not give a number for this.
• How far apart studs are in your wall. The sources do not state a spacing.
• Whether a bookcase under 6 feet tall needs anchoring. The Earthquake Country Alliance page gives the 6-foot rule for straps on taller units, but it does not say a shorter unit can be left free.
• Which hardware is better for a given bookcase: flexible straps or metal L brackets. The two SCEC pages and the AAP page differ in emphasis.
• How to anchor to plaster, brick, or tile walls. The pages we opened cover drywall warnings and stud fastening only.
• How much weight a net restraint or elastic cord will hold. The sources we opened do not say.

Mistakes to avoid

• Fastening only to drywall. The Earthquake Country Alliance says “Do not attach to gypsum wallboard only.” Find a stud behind the board.
• Using plastic anchors. The AAP page says “Plastic can become brittle over time and break, causing anchors to fail.”
• Using one anchor on a heavy unit. The AAP page says “The heavier the furniture, the more anchors you should use to prevent it from tipping.”
• Putting heavy items on top. The SCEC pages say to “Place heavy and/or large items on lower shelves.”
• Leaving breakables loose. The open-shelves page says “Collectibles, pottery objects, and lamps can become deadly projectiles.”

FAQ

Do I need to anchor a bookcase that is shorter than 6 feet?

The sources we opened do not say a shorter bookcase can be left unanchored. The AAP page says to “Secure all furniture and mirrors with anti-tip devices,” and the SCEC bookcase page gives the 6-foot rule for straps on taller pieces. Anchor any unit that could fall on someone, and check its installation instructions.

What kind of screw should go into the wall?

The CPSC staff report says that “a wood screw is usually provided and must be installed in a stud.” The sources we opened do not give a screw size for your unit, so use the hardware that comes with the kit and check it against the stud you have found.

Can I use nylon straps instead of metal L brackets?

The Earthquake Country Alliance bookcase page prefers flexible nylon strap kits because they “allow furniture to sway slightly without falling over.” The AAP page recommends metal anchors such as L brackets. The sources differ, so follow the unit’s own instructions and anchor to studs either way.

Where should the heaviest items go on a bookcase?

Put heavy and large items on lower shelves. The Earthquake Country Alliance bookcase page says this is to “prevent them from flying around the room in an earthquake.” The closed-shelves page says to “Store heavy objects as low as possible.”

When should I consult a structural engineer?

The Earthquake Country Alliance shelving page says that for shelf units that weigh over 250 pounds, including contents, you should “consult a structural engineer.” Lighter units can use the clip angles and steel struts the page describes.

How do I keep small items from sliding off a shelf?

The closed-shelves page says to “Use zee clips, bungee cords, or Velcro to secure small items.” For bulky or high items, use net restraints. The sources we opened do not say which option holds the most weight.

Bottom line

If a bookcase is tall or loaded enough that it could fall on someone, fasten it to wall studs with hardware that suits its size and weight, and keep the heaviest items on the lowest shelves.

Sources

• CPSC, “Preliminary Evaluation of Anchoring Furniture and Televisions Without Tools,” TR-15/001 (staff report, May 2015). https://www.cpsc.gov/s3fs-public/pdfs/Tipover-Prevention-Project-Anchors-without-Tools.pdf (opened 2026-10-27)
• American Academy of Pediatrics, HealthyChildren.org, “Preventing Furniture and TV Tip-Overs.” https://www.healthychildren.org/English/safety-prevention/at-home/Pages/Preventing-Furniture-and-TV-Tip-Overs.aspx (opened 2026-10-27)
• Earthquake Country Alliance (SCEC, USC), “Bookcases.” https://www.earthquakecountry.org/step1/bookcases/ (opened 2026-10-28)
• Earthquake Country Alliance (SCEC, USC), “Shelving Units.” https://www.earthquakecountry.org/step1/shelfunits/ (opened 2026-10-28)
• Earthquake Country Alliance (SCEC, USC), “Closed Shelves.” https://www.earthquakecountry.org/step1/closedshelves/ (opened 2026-10-28)
• Earthquake Country Alliance (SCEC, USC), “Open Shelves.” https://www.earthquakecountry.org/step1/openshelves/ (opened 2026-10-28)